CONSIDER THE CARROT In these surprising recipes, the ubiquitous root proves uncommonly versatile.
I’M EXCITED about carrots. You might find it curious: an experienced chef like me, who owns two restaurants (Nostrana and Oven and Shaker, in Portland, Ore.), with access to so many fabulous and exotic ingredients, getting excited about a vegetable everybody has in the back of the crisper drawer. I am, nevertheless, obsessed.
When I started cooking professionally, like so many young and enthusiastic chefs, I was attracted to “fancy” ingredients: foie gras, obscure cuts of meat, the stinkiest cheeses. In the produce world, I wanted to play with favas, cardoons and samphire—and let’s not forget the annual chef frenzy over ramps.
But the more I cooked and ate, and also learned from and appreciated farmers, the more the simple vegetables began to call to me, revealing their complexity as I paid more attention to the techniques that could bring out their best. Carrots may be everywhere, but they can be every bit as extraordinary as a vegetable that comes from the specialty produce purveyor—and at a much lower price, of course.
Another benefit of carrots is their year-round availability, in pretty decent condition, at every grocery store. You’ll see these mainstream carrots in a few forms: Fairly large, no-green-tops “storage” carrots come in bags or loose; I prefer the latter, because that way, I can select the specimens that are the right shape and size for my dish. Supermarket carrots also come in bunches, sometimes in rainbow colors, with frilly green tops, looking like they’re fresh from the farmers market despite the fact that they’re probably from a huge produce operation.
Find the recipe for Marsala Butter-Braised Carrots below.
Though carrots can seem seasonless, following them through the seasons highlights their range of flavor and texture. Spring carrots, harvested when mature enough to develop flavor but still no longer than your hand, tend to be tender, juicy and sweet. I like to showcase these early carrots in salads, grated or finely chopped. I also like to leave young carrots whole for dipping.
The longer carrots stay in the ground, the earthier their flavor becomes, and of course the carrots grow larger and denser. Fall carrots are better suited to braising and stewing. Through long cooking they grow velvety-tender and absorb the flavors of the other ingredients in the dish.
Intriguingly, sometimes mature carrots turn out to be the sweetest of all, thanks to a phenomenon called frost kissing. When temperatures drop, many plants make a defensive move in order to prevent their water content from freezing and damaging their cells. The sugar content increases and acts as a natural antifreeze. Carrots are not the only root vegetables that do this; “above-ground” vegetables such as artichokes, Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbages and many others do it, too.
Once you’ve trimmed the tops, carrots only need a quick peel, and if they’re truly babies, a gentle scrub will do the trick. Cut your carrot in whatever way your recipe demands: thin coins (a name I’ve always found charming), tidy square dice, diagonal chunks, delicate julienne. Leaving carrots whole or splitting them lengthwise highlights their elegant natural shape.
Find the recipe for Stufato of Carrots and Lamb below.
So many ingredients pair well with carrots. I’ll take a ginger-carrot combo any time, but I also like contrasting the vegetable’s fresh flavor with pungent accents such as the capers and anchovies in the salad recipe here. In my recipe for carrot and lamb stufato, an Italian stew, the earthy vegetable makes a good foil for the meat’s richness. When I’m in the mood to double down on the sweetness of carrots, I’ll simmer them with butter, honey and Marsala wine until they are delicately browned around the edges and infused with flavor. If you doubted whether such a simple vegetable could be dinner party worthy, this recipe will certainly sell you on the idea.
Marsala Butter-Braised Carrots
The sweetness of Marsala and honey complements the earthiness of carrots in a magical way. Don’t be daunted by the amount of butter: It brings the flavors together.
Total Time: 1 hour
serves: 4
Ingredients
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1¼ pounds carrots (about 7 medium carrots), peeled and cut on the diagonal into ⅜-inch-thick slices
- ¾ cup plus 6 tablespoons water
- ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
- ½ teaspoon honey
- ½ cup dry Marsala
Directions
- In a 12-inch sauté pan over medium-low heat, gently melt butter. Add carrots and stir to coat well. Add ¾ cups water, or enough to cover carrots ⅔ of the way. Cook, uncovered, until water evaporates, about 15 minutes. Stir in salt, honey and ¼ cup Marsala. Add 3 tablespoons water. As liquid evaporates, add 2 tablespoons Marsala, and continue cooking until it evaporates. Keep an eye on the carrots to prevent burning. Repeat once more, adding 3 tablespoons water and remaining 2 tablespoons Marsala. The carrots are done when they begin to brown around the edges and are very tender. Season with salt.
- Carrots can be served immediately or cooled and reheated later in the oven. They store well in the refrigerator up to 3 days.
Grated Carrot Salad With Capers, Anchovies, Parsley and Garlic
Reminiscent of the classic grated carrot salad served at Paris bistros, this version goes in an Italian direction. The assertive flavors of capers and anchovies provide a wonderful contrast to the sweetness of the raw carrot.
Total Time: 30 minutes
serves: 6-8
Ingredients
- 6 large, sweet carrots, peeled and julienned with a mandoline or grated in a food processor
- ¾ cup finely chopped Italian parsley leaves
- 3 tablespoons capers
- 1 small clove garlic
- 3 anchovy fillets packed in oil, finely chopped
- ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
Directions
- If using capers in brine, rinse them thoroughly. If using salted capers, rinse them, soak them in 1 cup cold water for 10 minutes, and drain before proceeding with recipe.
- In a medium mixing bowl, mix carrots, parsley and rinsed capers. Set aside.
- Make the dressing: Chop garlic, then finely mince along with a pinch of salt. In a small bowl, combine minced garlic, chopped anchovies, ¼ teaspoon salt and olive oil. Mix well and let macerate 5 minutes. After macerating, whisk in lemon juice until dressing is emulsified.
- Pour dressing over carrots and toss thoroughly. Taste and add more salt or lemon juice as needed. Let salad rest in refrigerator at least 10 minutes before serving. Serve chilled.
Stufato of Carrots and Lamb
Rosé wine adds a brightness to this light and subtle stew that is truly unique, though you can certainly substitute a dry white wine if that’s what you have on hand.
Total Time: 2 hours
serves: 4-6
Ingredients
- 1½ pounds boneless leg of lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced into half circles
- 2 cups dry rosé or white wine
- 1 cup tomato purée
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1½ pounds tender young carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch oblique-cut/roll-cut pieces
- 1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
- 2 whole lemons
- ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
Directions
- Pat lamb pieces dry. Heat olive oil in a deep braising pan or Dutch oven over medium high heat, but do not let it smoke. Add lamb pieces to pan and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes total. (You might need to brown the meat in batches so as not to crowd the pan.) Remove browned meat to a plate and season generously with salt and pepper.
- Lower heat to medium, add onions and sprinkle with salt. Sauté, stirring onions occasionally, until they are soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup wine, tomato purée, bay leaves, thyme, oregano and browned lamb. Bring to a simmer, cover and continue cooking at a very gentle simmer for 1 hour. (Keep an eye on the temperature, checking every 15 minutes or so to prevent boiling.)
- Once meat is tender but not dry or falling apart, use a slotted spoon to transfer it from the pot to a plate, tent with foil and set aside.
- Add carrots and remaining wine to pot, cover again and continue to simmer over low heat until carrots are tender but not mushy or falling apart, about 45 minutes. The carrots will absorb a lot of the liquid. If they absorb all the liquid but are still not tender, add water as needed.
- Return lamb and any accumulated juices to the pot. Add chickpeas and heat very gently, about 10 minutes. Right before serving, juice 1 lemon and stir juice into pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Cut remaining lemon into wedges. Ladle stufato into shallow bowls and top each serving with a heaping tablespoon of parsley. Serve immediately with a bowl of lemon wedges and remaining parsley on the table.
- Stew can be refrigerated and served the next day. Before serving, bring stufato to room temperature, then gently reheat.
SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS
Share your experience with these recipes. Did you make any adaptations? Join the conversation below.
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Appeared in the April 1, 2023, print edition as 'Consider The Carrot.'
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